VIDEOS FEATURING THE BO 6 CAR-15 TÓÕB
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THE LORE BEHIND THE BUILD
I have gotten more questions on this gun than I have on any other. The gun is inspired by two things: Black Ops 6 and 90’s late stage CAR-15’s used by Delta Force/SEALs/CIA (which is also what Black Ops 6 based it off of)
I can’t usually say on Youtube how to build it but I can here since this is my site. Start off by removing your flash hider, FSB, end plate, barrel nut and delta/slip ring. The only items you’ll need are the FSB, gas tube and flash hider. Once you have received your tube (I got mine from Sherluk but Fulton armory and a few others sell them as well) you’ll notice it already comes with a barrel nut so you wont need your old one.
With everything removed, connect the barrel to the upper and screw on the barrel nut. Torque your barrel nut down to the correct specs. I’m not a gunsmith so do this work AT YOUR OWN RISK. If you don’t know how to build an upper and don’t have the confidence for it, you probably shouldn’t be installing a tube as your first build.
With the barrel torqued on, next comes the installation of the tube. It threads onto the barrel nut and it does stop but you want to really make sure it’s on there snug. I used my bare hands to ensure it was tightened down and I used a little blue loctite as well (for peace of mind). I let the barrel sit on there for a day to allow the loctite to settle.
Now to cut the channel for the FSB.
You’ll be reusing the FSB you removed but you have to cut a slot for it in the tube. I just eyeballed mine but you should definitely measure exactly how far you need to cut in order to slide the gas block back on. I placed the upper in a vice and used a dremel to cut out a rectangle. I attempted to slide the FSB on but the bayonet lug was in the way so I dremeled that off too. I slid it on and that left only one more thing to do. The taper pin holes.
In order to pin the FSB to the barrel again you need to replace the taper pins. The only way to do so is to drill two holes in the side of the tube and stick the pins in that way. It takes some tweezers and a little common sense and you can get the pins back in. Now you’re pretty much done!
You can now drill other holes and even tap the tube itself to directly thread rails into it. Happy Tubing!
I can’t usually say on Youtube how to build it but I can here since this is my site. Start off by removing your flash hider, FSB, end plate, barrel nut and delta/slip ring. The only items you’ll need are the FSB, gas tube and flash hider. Once you have received your tube (I got mine from Sherluk but Fulton armory and a few others sell them as well) you’ll notice it already comes with a barrel nut so you wont need your old one.
With everything removed, connect the barrel to the upper and screw on the barrel nut. Torque your barrel nut down to the correct specs. I’m not a gunsmith so do this work AT YOUR OWN RISK. If you don’t know how to build an upper and don’t have the confidence for it, you probably shouldn’t be installing a tube as your first build.
With the barrel torqued on, next comes the installation of the tube. It threads onto the barrel nut and it does stop but you want to really make sure it’s on there snug. I used my bare hands to ensure it was tightened down and I used a little blue loctite as well (for peace of mind). I let the barrel sit on there for a day to allow the loctite to settle.
Now to cut the channel for the FSB.
You’ll be reusing the FSB you removed but you have to cut a slot for it in the tube. I just eyeballed mine but you should definitely measure exactly how far you need to cut in order to slide the gas block back on. I placed the upper in a vice and used a dremel to cut out a rectangle. I attempted to slide the FSB on but the bayonet lug was in the way so I dremeled that off too. I slid it on and that left only one more thing to do. The taper pin holes.
In order to pin the FSB to the barrel again you need to replace the taper pins. The only way to do so is to drill two holes in the side of the tube and stick the pins in that way. It takes some tweezers and a little common sense and you can get the pins back in. Now you’re pretty much done!
You can now drill other holes and even tap the tube itself to directly thread rails into it. Happy Tubing!
PARTS LIST
UPPER:
RECEIVER: Luth C7
BARREL: Colt 6920 with F marked FSB
HAND GUARD: Sherluk Defense - Free Float aluminum Knurled Hand Guard 12 3/8 inch length
(Magpul polymer rail attached via direct tap into tube)
MUZZLE: A2
LOWER:
RECEIVER: Palmetto State Armory Stealth
GRIP: A2 grip with nub removed via dremel
STOCK: CAR-15
LOWER PARTS KIT: Palmetto State Armory LPK
TRIGGER: Geissele G2S
ATTACHMENTS:
OPTIC: Aimpoint 2000 with MGW mount
LIGHT: Surefire 6P LED with Shekkin gears pressure pad (China)
SLING: Colt nylon attached via paracord.
CHEEK RISER: Hammy3Dprints CAR-15 Cheek Riser
RECEIVER: Luth C7
BARREL: Colt 6920 with F marked FSB
HAND GUARD: Sherluk Defense - Free Float aluminum Knurled Hand Guard 12 3/8 inch length
(Magpul polymer rail attached via direct tap into tube)
MUZZLE: A2
LOWER:
RECEIVER: Palmetto State Armory Stealth
GRIP: A2 grip with nub removed via dremel
STOCK: CAR-15
LOWER PARTS KIT: Palmetto State Armory LPK
TRIGGER: Geissele G2S
ATTACHMENTS:
OPTIC: Aimpoint 2000 with MGW mount
LIGHT: Surefire 6P LED with Shekkin gears pressure pad (China)
SLING: Colt nylon attached via paracord.
CHEEK RISER: Hammy3Dprints CAR-15 Cheek Riser
